Folk costumes of the Panonian Region

Folk costumes of the Panonian Region

 Folk costumes of the Panonian Region- were widespread in central and northern parts of Serbia, Banat, Bačka, Srem, as well as in Baranja, Slavonija, Bela Krajina and Bosanska Posavina, regions partially inhabited by Serbian population. In the southern border strip around the Sava and the Danube, folk costumes were Dinaric and Central Balkan elements, and in the large space open to the rest of the Panonian Basin in the north, the influence of Central European  styles, especially baroque and, since the end of the 19th century, Central and West European city fashion, could be noticed.

The vivid style of traditional garments and adornments was reflected in the use of light colours, creased linen clothes, wide garments made of stuff and fur suitable for everyday chores, the use of floral designs as well as geometrical ornaments in multi-coloured, white and golden woven and embroidered pieces of clothing and accessories.Clothes were usually made of hemp and linen cloth, and, starting from the middle od the 19th century, home-made cotton cloth was also used.

Several versions of traditional female clothes in this region included a wide, long shirt, rubina, as their common feature. It consisted of the upper part called oždrelje or oplećak and the lower part, skuti, which were joined at the waist. Another characteristic feature of this folk costume is the apron worn by maried women, both at the front and at the back, and only at the front by girls.

The main items of the male summer clothes are the linen shirt and underpants, with a common name - košulje, rubine. The underpants with narrow legs worn in Bosanska Posavina had lacy trimmings at the bottom and, in Serbian regions, they were usually tucked into brightly coloured socks and knee-length socks (tozluci) which covered the shins from the ankles to the knees. Over the shirt which was, in the Panonian region, always worn over the underpants, men wore a woven woollen belt or a leather belt (silav, besnilah) on special occasions.

The winter costume consisted of a waistcoat (gunjić, jelek, ljetak), džemadan with overlapping fronts and an overcoat (gunj) with long sleeves, as well as trousers (čakšire) with narrow legs, but a bit wider at the back. Garments worn on holidays (ferman, koporan, anterija, čakšire) were usually made of dark blue baize.

As far as  headgear is concerned, a straw or a felt that was worn in summer as well as a fes and in Serbia a fur hat called šubara and the traditonal hat (šajkača) starting from the end of the 19th century. The footwear usually consisted of woollen socks and traditional shoes - raw leather opanaks made by craftsmen.

Both summer and winter costumes included: the woollen apron (pregača) with woven geometrical designs, and, on special ocassions, velvet, silk or satin pinafores (kecelje) often decorated with relief golden embroidery and floral designs, as well as the waistcoat (prsluk, prosluk) or a large shawl richly ornamented with fringes, worn around  the shoulders.